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AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF A FASHION DESIGNER
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By: Walter Greene

 

`Autobiography Of A Fashion Designer Ralph Rucci' is the appropriate
title that says it all. The elegant coffee table offering is covered in
black linen with the title carved also in black with the designer's
name in red. The whole book is then encased in a sturdy, matching black
linen case. Just the look and feel of this books echo's a magnificent
experience told in words and photographs by one of America's most
talented fashion designers. Ralph Rucci started designing over 30 years
ago and was the first American designer to be welcomed as a couture
designer at the distinguished Chambre Syndicale de la Couture: the
regulating commission that determines which fashion houses are eligible
to be true haute couture. This is an honor only given to Parisian
designers. His New York shows are the hottest ticket during fashion
week, yet Ralph Rucci does not run after and seek the attention or
acceptance among the clique of `well known top American designers.'

TRULY ORIGINAL
Chado Ralph Rucci is a fashion house with its own vocabulary - a house
with its own music. They dance to their own beat. One only has to see
and experience one of his designs to understand the uniqueness and
depth of his talent as an artist. New silhouettes and technical
processes enter his oeuvre as the designer sees fit, not when external
pressure dictate. Most of the artisanal techniques and exquisite,
intricate hand-work exhibited in the Spring 2012 collection were once
again conceived, developed, and realized by Ralph and his team - a
studio which has been collectively referred to as one of the finest in
the world. Ralph Rucci and his team are also very proud that every
garment - samples and production, is made in Chado's workroom.

CHADO - THE MEANING
Ralph explained; "The people who work with me give me the drive to go
beyond last season and to approach luxury at its zenith, This is why I
use the word Chado above my name. Chado is the elaborate Japanese
ceremony of 311 steps to present someone with a cup of tea. Chado
symbolizes the effort and level of excellence that goes into the making
of our garments.....Ultimately I feel that I am merely a conduit
between God, my staff, and those who are wired to "feel" the work. In
the process I grow and age, year after year. Now, after 30 years I am
aware of a body of work that leaves me speechless. I am astounded and
grateful that I have permitted to do this with my life. I did not
choose, I was chosen."

THE SANCTUARY
Between hundreds of photographs, Ralph Rucci welcome readers into his
world. The first part of the book is dedicated to his home. He opens
the door to his "Home is my sanctuary...." he notes as you journey
through Ralph's zone of comfort, filled with books and mementoes that
all signify something important in his life. "It was Susan who brought
the comfort and the luxury," he writes of Susan Gutfreund who was the
interior designer of the apartment. "She has a brilliant eye for
connecting elements so that you're not overwhelmed. The elements
quietly speak for themselves, no one thing noticed more than the
other." From the kitchen utensils to the embossed leather walls,
expensive paintings to art objects everything is impeccable and Ralph
tell cute stories of each item highlighted. Readers will be touched by
items like the pair of 18th century Chinese cabinets, a pair of bronze
Italian statues made for Medici by the sculpture Pietro Tassa between
1577-1640. and an Elsa Peretti sterling snake necklace.

THE ATILIER
The book then moves to the professional career of this talented
designer - his showroom, desk items, his awards, original sketches, his
first book, fashion memorabilia, his staff photographed at work and the
hundreds sources of inspiration all of which he simply says "Its all
burrowed." In between words of wisdom like "In couture, the only
constant in hand workmanship is the balance of its imperfection and its
perfection. That is why it is important to use the hand." Hundreds of
Chado Ralph Rucci's garments are displayed in various stages - before,
during and after his shows. Ralph even shares his highly regarded
studio techniques like feathering, `Suspension' embroidery, Trapunto,
Cross grain or Grain Across Grain, Cutting Fabric with Paper and
Cutting on the bias among them.

VISUAL AUTOBIOGRAPY
Beth Daugherty, editor and book publisher from Bauer and Dean
Publishers, Inc., said about the writing of this magnificent book; "The
book is the first in a series that I envisioned. These books are visual
autobiographies...pulling on the age old concept of home as
autobiography. I have expanded the concept to look at different
artistic trades that at their best exhibit handwork. These
autobiographies reveal the inner workings of a trade as practiced by a
specific artist/artisan. The book also look at what is behind the
creation of the piece...who is the artist; what do they look at for
inspiration; how do they live. Because I like how Ralph thinks we added
words to supplement the photos.

PERSONALITY & HISTORY
"Ralph was a client of mine at a bookstore I ran. He was always on my
mind for the fashion designer volume. I asked him and he said yes. That
was a good day. He was open to the process and was perfect for the
book. The photographs of Ralph's apartment reveal his personality and
history, while the photographs of his studio reveal the techniques and
tools that distinguish Ralph as a fashion designer. Ralph Rucci
provides the perfect eyes through which to view the fashion designer
because of his meatier and the deep well of inspiration he pulls from
to create the garments each season."

BODY OF WORK
This designer's work has been featured in numerous museums, including
three solo shows, and is the subject of a book, "Ralph Rucci: The Art
of Weightlessness", Chado was the subject of a documentary film by
David Boatman "Ralph Rucci: A Designer and His House" , which premiered
on The Sundance Channel in 2008. Also in 2008, Ralph was honored to
accept the National Design Award in Fashion awarded by the
Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum in New York City. On October 19,
his plaque on the "Fashion Walk of Fame" was unveiled.

Tags: autobiography, Chado, fashion designer, garment specialist, Ralph Rucci, Walter Greene


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